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Lighting Tips from Topbulb
 
 
 
 

High Wattage CFLs

 

High wattage compact fluorescent (HW-CFLs) are bulbs in the 55W - 200W range. They are intended primarily for retrofit in HID fixtures (after the HID ballast is disconnected) or for retrofit in high-wattage incandescent fixtures. HW-CFLs provide light output equivalent to incandescent 200W – 500W; metal halide 70W – 175W and high pressure sodium 50W – 150W. The benefits of HW-CFLs: (1) high color rendering and more color temperature options than standard metal halide and HPS; (2) instant restrike after a power outage; (3) medium and mogul screw base (4) better energy efficiency and lamp life compared to incandescent and competitive with metal halide and HPS. The drawbacks: (1) more suitable for general illumination rather than for directional lighting; (2) enclosed fixtures may overheat the ballast electronics of self-ballasted HW-CFLs; (3) frequent switching may shorten lamp life therefore not recommended for use with occupancy sensor controls. Go to this page to view the Topbulb line of HW-CFLs.

 

 

High CRI Bulbs

 

The colors of Spring are a reminder how important color is in our lives. The subtle color variations of an iris blooming in the yard on a clear day can easily be seen and appreciated. The same iris in a vase at the office might not look quite as colorful. Why? Because it is the light source illuminating an object that determines how well humans see color. CRI or color rendering index, is a numerical scale (0 to 100) used in lighting to indicate how a light source will make the color of an object appear to human eyes. The higher the number, the better the color rendering ability. In many cases, this difference is not important. However, for certain applications such as illuminating art or comparing fabric in retail clothing stores, CRI is important. There is also evidence that high CRI bulbs might be perceived to be brighter which could allow for the installation of lower wattage bulbs to save energy. Topbulb offers high CRI options for fluorescent, halogen and metal halide bulbs. Go to this page for more information on color rendering and to see a list of high CRI bulbs.

 

 

The New 60W Bulb (and it's not an LED!)

 

The 100W incandescent light bulb has been getting more than it’s 15 minutes of fame lately in the press. The 60W bulb, by far the leading seller, must be feeling neglected! Whatever the politics, the 60W incandescent currently is scheduled to be replaced by a more efficient 60W bulb in 2014. These new bulbs are already being manufactured. They are still incandescent, they look the same, screw into the same socket, are dimmable, emit the same light and have the same rated life. The difference: they use 30% less energy and they currently cost about 3 times more than the traditional 60W. Those costs will likely come down in the next couple of years when manufacturers start producing in larger quantities. In the meantime, whatever your preference, we stock both.

 

 

Quality Light in the Workplace

 

It is well documented that light affects productivity in the workplace. The key is quality light, not quantity. A high level of ambient light alone (usually from the ceiling) is seldom satisfactory. Current best practice lighting design for the workplace emphasizes the following components: (1) task lighting for optimum individual control at the workstation and (2) daylight, if available, for ambient light, supplemented by moderate levels of 3500K to 4100K color temperature, indirect T8 or T5 fluorescent lighting. For more information or questions about lighting for the workplace, please call us at 1-800-867-2852.

 

 

120V or 130V Incandescent?

 

When shopping for incandescent or halogen light bulbs, sometimes you will find an option of buying the exact same bulb in either 120Volt or 130Volt. The 130V bulb will usually claim a much longer rated life. Longer life sounds great, but there is a catch. Operating a 130V rated bulb in a 120V socket will increase bulb life by 200% or more, but it will also reduce the light output by about 25%. So if you can live with less illumination for a particular application, 130V rated incandescent and halogen bulbs can be a very good deal.

 

 

Glare, A Common Outdoor Lighting Design Flaw

 

Glare is the most common design mistake in outdoor lighting. Glare is caused by direct view of an unshielded light source and by high contrast between the entry and the exterior darkness. The basic design principle applies to both residential and commercial outdoor entries: it’s better to use multiple, low light level fixtures that are shielded for indirect illumination than one high brightness fixture.

 

 

Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD)

 

For some people, the onset of fewer hours of daylight means dealing with seasonal affective disorder (SAD). Research shows that any light source (preferably daylight) at 10,000 lux (1000 foot-candles) aimed toward the eye for 30 minutes a day, can be effective. Light sources with a strong blue wavelength component are most effective. Bulbs marketed as "full spectrum" usually meet this standard, although it is not necessary to purchase expensive light boxes to make them work. Any electric light bulb with a "color temperature" of 5000K or higher also meets this standard. Topbulb carries many bulbs that can provide both quality illumination and 5000K or higher color temperature that can be effective in combating SAD. Click here to view.

 

 

LCD / DLP Lamp Life

 

The average rated effective life of most LCD / DLP projector lamp is about 2000 hours. This could vary based frequency of use. The lamp usually won’t “burn out” like regular light bulbs, but will slowly grow dimmer. Most projectors have a built-in lamp hour counter. Consult the counter to help anticipate the best time to purchase a replacement. When a replacement is purchased, install it and re-set the counter to zero. Store the old lamp for back-up in case there is a premature failure of the new lamp.

 

 

The Power of Blue Light

 

Blue light, it turns out, is not the light of the “blues”. In studies done over the last few years, human exposure to blue light (light with a predominant wavelength in the short end of the visible spectrum) has a stimulation effect on our circadian sleep system. Blue light helps us wake up and stay awake. In one interesting application, hospitals are starting to use red night lights in patient rooms so that when nurses need to visit in the night, the patient is not exposed to blue light (which is present in white light) and will be less likely to fully wake up.

 

 

How Does the Yellow "Bug Light" Work?

 

Insects and humans have different visual perceptions. The human visual system is activated by radiant energy in the color range from deep blue to dark red. The vision of flying insects, however, is shifted away from long-wavelength red toward the shorter blue and near ultraviolet (black light) wavelengths. Standard incandescent light sources emit both short and long wavelengths so they attract flying insects. Yellow bug lights do not repel bugs - they just don't attract as many as standard bulbs because the insects cannot see the yellow light as well as they can see blue or ultraviolet light. We carry many bug lights, but here's our favorite.

 

 

Do Screw Base LED Replacement Bulbs Make Economic Sense?

 

Do screw based LED replacement bulbs make economic sense? Availability is increasing of LED bulbs in common configurations like the workhorse 40, 60, 100 watt equivalent A-lamps and PAR20, PAR30, PAR38 equivalent floods. The energy savings is significant. A 35 watt PAR20 halogen requires only 8 watts when it’s an LED. The catch of course is the price: $8 vs. $80. Where it gets interesting is when the life of the bulb is factored in: 2500 hrs for the halogen, 25,000 hrs for the LED. Now the huge price difference doesn’t look so bad. Still, the high first cost is a barrier. Our advice: consider screw based LED's for special applications such as hard to reach areas where bulb replacement is difficult. With a 25,000 hour life, you can install the LED bulb and forget about it for a long time. Here are the LED bulbs we offer.

 

 

The Incandescent Light Bulb is Not Going Away

  New U.S. energy standards for incandescent bulbs start taking effect on January 1, 2012. This will NOT mean the end of the incandescent light bulb. Instead you will start seeing a new breed of general service incandescent light bulbs. Some are already on the market . . . like new A19 bulbs at 72, 53, 43 and 29 watts that look identical to and provide the same light as traditional 100, 75, 60 and 40 watt bulbs. View these new bulbs.
   
 

Light Bulb Descriptions Can Be Confusing

  Light bulb descriptions can seem arcane, but they tell a lot about the bulb before you ever read the fine print. Let’s look at two examples. Many bulb descriptions include a letter followed by a number. A few examples: A19, BR30, PAR20, ED28, T8. The letters are a code for bulb shape (Bulged Reflector, etc) and the number is the diameter of the bulb, at the widest point, in 1/8 inch increments. To calculate the diameter in inches, simply divide the number by 8. Now look at a typical fluorescent bulb description: F32T8/841. Translation: F is fluorescent, 32 is watts, T is shape (tubular), 8 is diameter (1 inch) and 841 gives you both CRI and color temperature information. The first number tells you the color temperature range; in this case in the 80’s. The second two numbers indicate color temperature, so 41 means 4100K.
   
 

The Key Role of Rare Earth Phosphors in Fluorescent Lamps

  The color of light produced by a fluorescent lamp depends on a blend of rare earth phosphors used to coat the wall of the tube. A 2800K color temperature bulb produces a “warm” appearing light. A 4100K bulb produces a “cool white” light. Specific blends of rare earth phosphors with names like Cerium, Europium and Yttrium (also used in LEDs) can produce a range of color temperatures from 2500K to 6000K. In addition, these phosphor blends allow for high color rendering (82 to 95 CRI), and improved lamp efficacy.
   
 

TCLP Compliant, Low Mercury Lamps May Reduce Disposal Costs

  Typical fluorescent lamps contain toxic mercury in the range of 8 to 14 milligrams. For a number of years manufacturers have offered a low-mercury version of their popular lamps. Philips ‘Alto’, Osram ‘Ecologic’, GE ‘Ecolux’ – these lamps contain 3.5 to 4 milligrams of mercury. Promoted as “green”, the lamps are TCLP compliant meaning they pass, according the manufacturer, the Federal standard that qualifies them as non-hazardous waste. In some states, TCLP compliant lamps do not need to be recycled, they can go directly into landfills, reducing disposal costs. Other states require recycling regardless of the mercury content in the bulbs. To learn the requirement in your state, follow this link.
   
 

Why Krypton and Xenon Bulbs Have Longer Rated Life

  You may have wondered why some bulbs feature krypton or xenon gas. For many years, incandescent bulbs were filled with nitrogen gas. When argon became more affordable, it was substituted for nitrogen because it decreased the rate of evaporation of the tungsten filament and increased bulb life. More recently, krypton or xenon are used in some bulbs in place of argon. Because the molecular size is larger than argon, both these inert gases do a better job of retarding the evaporation of the filament and give longer life to the bulb. Also, since both krypton and xenon have lower heat conductivity than argon, the filament temperature is higher which increases the efficacy of the bulb. Xenon is better than krypton at both of these enhancements, but it is significantly more expensive. These specialty gases are used in filament bulbs where the added cost is justified by the improved performance. Click here to view krypton and xenon bulbs offered by Topbulb.
   
 

Why Dimming Incandescent, Halogen and LEDs Extends Bulb Life

  Dimming incandescent and halogen bulbs not only provides both an aesthetic and energy conservation benefit, it also increases the life of the bulb. Incandescent and halogen bulbs can be dimmed by lowering voltage across the bulb filament. For incandescent bulbs, a 20% reduction in voltage using a dimmer increases the life of the bulb by a factor of nearly 20. Dimming halogen bulbs also increases bulb life, but because of bulb wall temperature requirements for the halogen cycle, the impact is less. Interestingly, dimmable LEDs may also have a small increase in life if they are dimmed. Life degradation for LEDs is determined primarily by the solid state junction temperature – higher temperatures reduce life. Since dimming lowers the junction temperature, the life of the LED should be extended.
   
 

Advantages of Pulse-Start Metal Halide Lamps

  Pulse-start lamps offer several benefits: (1) higher light output per unit of electric power - higher savings if paired with electronic ballast; (2) higher light output as lamps age; (3) longer lamp life; (4) more stable color rendering as lamps age; (5) quicker startup - pulse-start lamps can reach full brightness in two to four minutes instead of the five to ten minutes needed by probe-start lamps.
   
 

How Heat Affects LEDs?

  When you hold your hand close to the surface of an illuminated incandescent or halogen bulb you feel heat – radiant heat to be precise. When you do the same with a cluster of LEDs, you don’t feel heat. The spectral output of LEDs for lighting does not contain infrared radiation. Why then do you often hear of the need to dissipate heat from LED lamps? And why the elaborate cooling fins that have become a common feature of LED replacement bulbs? The answer is that while LEDs do not produce infrared radiant heat, they do generate heat at the solid state junction. Too much heat at this junction will lower the life of the LED and reduce light output. The cooling fins perform the task of dissipating this heat. So, if you use LEDs as replacement bulbs, be aware that light output and rated life will be adversely affected if they are placed inside enclosed or poorly ventilated fixtures where it will be difficult to dissipate heat.
   
 

How Heat Affects CFLs?

  Screw base compact fluorescent bulbs (CFLs) are designed so they can easily replace incandescent or halogen bulbs while providing both energy savings and longer life. Quality CFLs on the market today can come very close to matching the quality of light, instant on and even dimming characteristics of incandescent and halogen. One area of comparative weakness has been that CFLs often come with the warning not to use them in “enclosed fixtures”. Flush mount ceiling and wall fixtures and recessed downlights present a problem because of potential heat build-up inside the fixture. The concern is not about fire. It’s about the fact that excess heat, particularly around the base of the CFL, can cause premature bulb failure. Screw based CFLs are built with integral voltage transformers so they can be screwed into a 120V socket. Heat causes the transformer to fail prematurely. Hence the warning about “enclosed fixtures”. The good news is that there are CFLs in the 5W to 15W range that have special transformers built for high heat conditions. If you have an application that may require this type of CFL, please give us a call at 800-867-2852.
   
 

The Appearance of Light (Color Temperature) is Key Design Issue

  When deciding on the best light bulb for a particular application, one consideration not to overlook is the appearance of the light as perceived by the people using the space. For example, many people will find a formal dining room more appealing with “warmer” appearing light, while for a large, open-plan office “neutral to cool white” appearing light is the better choice. Color temperature designations of light bulbs can be confusing. Sometimes you’ll see subjective terms such as “warm white” or “cool white”. Other times the quantitative Kelvin temperature number will be used: 2700K (warm white), 4100K (cool white). Here are some approximate reference points: candle light is 1800K (warm yellow), a standard 60W incandescent light bulb is 2700K (warm white), lights in a portrait photo studio are 3200K (neutral white), fluorescent lights in a classroom or office are often 4100K (cool white), daylight with a thin overcast sky is 6500K (bluish, white light). Most incandescent and halogen bulbs are in the Kelvin range 2700K – 3000K. Fluorescent, metal halide and LED bulbs can be purchased with color temperature options from 2700K to 6500K. If you have questions about color temperature when purchasing bulbs from Topbulb, please use our 800-867-2852 phone number and we will be happy to explain the options.
   
 

Decoding Edison Base Types

  There are hundreds of unique bases for light bulbs. The most familiar is the Edison screw base found on most incandescent bulbs and many halogen, compact fluorescent, HID and now LED bulbs. The common terms are medium, intermediate, candelabra and mogul. However, because the light industry likes mysterious codes, you may also see E26, E12, E39, etc. E obviously is for Edison. The number after the E is the diameter of the base in millimeters. Here are the most common Edison base codes: Medium (think household 60W bulbs) = E26; Intermediate = E17; Candelabra = E12; Mini Candelabra = E11; Miniature = E10; Midget = E5. The large Mogul bases found on higher wattage incandescent and HID bulbs are E39. Most Edison base bulbs are called "single contact" because there is one contact button at the center of the base. However a few are called "double contact" (two buttons) in which case the designation becomes E26d or E39d. The good news is there are relatively few Edison base designations. It really gets crazy with pin-based bulbs – there are well over 75 different types!
   
   
   
   
   


   





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Topbulb.com, a Victoria Supply Inc. company, is the commercial and residential resource for light bulbs and lamps for both general and specialty lighting.
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